CHOOSING A HOTEL: Avoid hotels not in the city center. Unfortunately this includes such well-recognized American brand names as Sheraton, Holiday Inn, and Hilton. (All nice hotels, by the way.) The reason: too far from the core. They typically .do. run courtesy buses a few times a day to the city. The infrequent operations, though, constrain your sightseeing. As well, they often have no bus returning to the hotel at an hour convenient for a late night of dining. You want to be in the middle of the city, near the action. This also makes it convenient to stop by the hotel for a nap when the sightseeing and 'marble foot' catch up with you! You'll not find facilities exactly equivalent to what you might expect from your U.S. travel experiences, for the same price. I've found no equivalent to a $50 double at a Comfort Inn. You can find a 2-star in Rome for about twice as much, but don't expect to find an equivalent room. There are two factors at play: First, the European tradition is different. Rooms are usually smaller, less brightly lighted, and perhaps somewhat less well furnished. (Many exceptions, especially if you like authentic antiques.) In cities you may find more noise. Air conditioning is not common, even in Rome, except at more expensive hotels. Second, the dollar is soft against most currencies. Some look at the lira-to-dollar rate and see a bargain. What I see is a rate that's down from the 2000:1 of the late '70s, and a country that seen annual inflation rates in the past of 15-20%. In their favor, you can expect more in the way of service and attentiveness (presuming you're not the embodiment of the Ugly American.) European hotels use less space, recycle more, and use less energy. Who is to say whether European or American hotels are 'better'. They're different, and must be judged on different scales. 4-star hotels are the closest approximation in my mind to what we might call a 'moderate' or 'above average' hotel (what most American businessmen would be accustomed to). But, to be redundant, you'll not find the accommodations or price equivalent. Most Americans would find the rooms closer to a Red Roof Inn (better service, though), and the price closer to a Hilton or Hyatt. Even paying $400 per night at a 5-star hotel, you may, in some cases, find yourself thinking the price is too high by at least $100, though you'll undoubtedly enjoy better service. Net, you may have to adjust your sights when travelling in Europe. You'll have to pay somewhat more than expected and accept the fact that the accommodations won't be exactly equivalent to what you would get for that money in the U.S.. The majority of Americans will adjust to European hotels well, cherish the differences and look forward to returning to their favorite. Below the $150-200 level you'll be trading off one or more things: 1) location - you may not find yourself located near many of the attractions or restaurants you want to visit. That may not be a major problem, though transport in Rome can be a bit more of a problem than elsewhere in Europe, especially at night. On the other hand, the 'heart' of the city is reasonably small. 2) size and closets - already small in even grand hotels by American standards, you may find that your 4'x4' room goes up and down quite often! 3) elevators - you may find that nothing in the hotel goes up and down - 6 floor pensiones with no elevators are not rare. 4) no breakfast - not a major problem since most neighborhoods have a convenient 'bar' where you can get a good roll and great coffee fairly inexpensively. 5) neighborhood -the city is not rife with crime (despite some reports, (I still feel safer there than NYC), but there are some areas where I would not feel comfortable after dark. OUR HOTELS: (we've stayed in (almost) all) (All phones and faxes preceded from the U.S. by 011-39-6) Hassler, Trinita dei Monti, 6 $300-375 phone 679-2651, fax 678-0001. Arguably the best. Romantic overlook of Spanish Steps. Also a most expensive roof garden restaurant. Le Grand Hotel et de Roma, via vittorio Orlando, 3 $275-350 phone 4709, fax 474-7307 Also arguably the best. Excellent. Location fairly good, but not great. Excelsior, via Veneto, 125 $275-350 phone 4708 tlx 610232 fax 4756205 - 800 number for this and Grand 221 2340 (both part of CIGA chain, best in Italy, and Grand the flagship). Used to be the best; still in top 3 or 4. Headquarters of The Gestapo during war. Great location on via Veneto. Jolly Hotel Via Veneto, Corso d'Italia, 1 $250 phone 8495 fax 862445. New (perhaps 1988 - but new for Rome) decent location at the edge of the large park at the end of the Via Veneto. Smallish (typical for Europe, especially modern) rooms. Hotel de La Ville, via Sistina, 69, $220-280. Phone 6733 tlx 620836 fax 6784213. Despite address, right next door to Hassler. Good location and view. Haven't stayed at. Pullman Boston, via Lombardia, 47, $200+. Phone 473951. Fine location near via Veneto. Stayed at several years ago; quite adequate to very nice then. Seriously renovated in last few years. Suspect excellent value. La Residenza, via Emilia, 22 about $155 (Lit. 248,000) for peak of 1995. Phone 460789, fax 485721. {Not to be confused with the Hotel Residence}. Favorite (but only 27 rooms or so - bookings very difficult). Very pleasant, small hotel. Nice staff. Old villa. Redecorated rooms renovated about 1986-7. Smallish (European size) rooms. Good location two blocks from main part of via Veneto. We love it. Can rarely get in due to its relative popularity and the short lead time on most of our trips. Price includes breakfast (fairly unusual in Rome), and the breakfast is an 'American breakfast buffet', (includes eggs and bacon) rare indeed in Italy. One of better buys in Europe, and probably best in Rome. If you want to give it a whirl, reserve EARLY. Pensione Scalinata di Spagna. Price near $200 in 1995. Very popular, and nice if you can take the price for a (top-rate, admittedly) pension. On top of Spanish Steps (which is what name means), across from the Hassler. Lovely rooftop breakfast area with view across rooftops to St. Peter's a mile away. Used to be $15 in the late '60s. Pensione Sicilia, via Sicilia. Right around the corner from the Excelsior. Phone 4823712. Great location. Decent value. In 1977 it was $22 for 2 persons, with breakfast. A little bit of roughing it, though fun if you're in to budget things. Price for a double with breakfast, tax and service included - about $100 - $125 in January 1995 . Clean. (Haven't stayed in for several years, but friend stayed there in 1989 and found it as I described, and found the staff to be exceptionally accommodating.) Pensione Suisse, via Gregoriana, 54. Phone 678-3649, fax 678-1258. Compact and tidy, cheerful rooms. An excellent value performer. Double with bath about $85. Visconti Palace Hotel. Located away from the center of sights, though. Fairly modern hotel, with small though efficient rooms. Priced at about $100-120 for a twin with bath. OTHER HOTELS Correspondents have recommended inexpensive hotels in the Campo de' Fiori area, well located for sightseeing: "My favorite place in Rome is the della Lunetta. It's nothing fancy, but it's usually clean, the price is right for central Rome ($70-80 per night), and the location is terrific. Phone is 686-1080. Piazza del Paradiso, 68." "My favorite is Hotel Campo de' Fiori, a real budget charmer, via del Biscione, 6. Rooms are small but have firm beds and full baths in half the rooms. Many rooms renovated in late '80s. The 'honeymoon suite' on the top floor is not one, truly, but the room is larger than others and has a roof deck with a view. (There is no elevator, and it's six flights up!) Rates are around 160,000 for double with bath. Phone: 687-5929 or 687-4886, or fax: 654-5495." "Try the budget Hotel Smeraldo at vicolo dei Chiodaroli, 9. Rates are L.55,000 to 170,000 for singles to quads. It's simple and clean. Call 687-5929 or fax 654-5495." Many convents provide inexpensive, safe, accommodations. One correspondent praises Suore Francescane (Franciscan Sisters), Via Nicolo V 35, 00165 Roma, phone 393-66531. It's located behind the back (west) wall of the Vatican, a 10 minute walk from St Peter's Square. If you make reservations in advance (recommended) you can include a check in U.S. dollars (e.g.$50) to avoid their having to write back asking for a deposit. (They use the Vatican bank so dollars work fine). A single ran Lit.40,000 in November '94. Doubles and family rooms available. Rooms have a sink, but the bath is down the hall. Sister Helen Agnes, from Hawaii, runs the operation and can often provide tickets for various Vatican ceremonies including the weekly Papal audiences. EATING Italian food for most Americans means heavy tomato sauces, and an excess of garlic, oregano and red pepper. This style is largely based on a (somewhat faulty) recollection of southern Italian (e.g. Naples, Sicily) cooking. Many objective observers believe the 'haute cuisine' of France evolved from Italian instruction. In any event, you're in for a treat at every lunch and dinner in Rome. Rome is centrally located in Italy, and its cooking reflects northern and southern influences. As well, there are a number of restaurants specializing in the foods of a particular region. Take the opportunity to gain as wide a variety of experiences as possible. If you wish a before dinner drink, it's just as well to order your dinner wine. Alternatives might include Campari (Camparisoda) or Cynar. Campari tastes somewhat like cherry flavored cough syrup (better!), and Cynar is made from artichokes - and despite the thought that might raise, is excellent. You may prefer them with ice, in which case add 'con ghiaccio' (gee-atch-yo) to your order. Europeans rarely drink hard liquor, particularly before dinner, and you'll likly be disappointed if you order a Manhattan, for example. If you order a 'martini', you'll likely be served straight vermouth (which is quite tasty). Antipastos are quite unlike what you see in the U.S.. Often restaurants have a table or cart from which to make your choice - either a single item, or a variety. We especially enjoy Frittata (an omelet with many ingredients, but quite beyond an ordinary omelet), Prosciutto con Melone (or Ficchi (figs) in season) and Insalata Caprese. Carciofi (artichoke) alla Romana is quite popular in the city. The 'primo piatto' is a chance for experimentation, between pastas and 'soups'. 'Soup' comes in three varieties: Brodo: broth, usually with a light touch of pasta, beans or rice; minestre: an extremely hearty dish, not quite as thick as stew; zuppa, falling in between the two. We usually take a light soup as an opener if we're going to have a meat course. Try Stracciatella ('egg drop soup') or Tortellini in Brodo. The veal scallop dishes are special; try Vitello al Limone or Saltimboca alla Romana (Jump-in-the-Mouth, similar to Veal Cordon Bleu, but far better). You'll enjoy Boconcini (di Vitello), bite-sized veal morsels, often served with peas, or fresh mushrooms in season. Many restaurants (especially with a northern focus) feature chops and steaks (all .very. expensive). Bistecca alla Fiorentina is about as big a grilled (often over a wood fire) steak (roughly a Porterhouse or T-Bone Sirloin) as you're likely to find outside of Texas. Veal and pork chops are succulent. Osso Bucco (veal shanks) is a special delight. Rognoni or Fegatto kidneys or liver (veal preferred)) are prepared with a special touch. Salads (normally eaten after the main course) are outstanding. Insalata Verde is a green salad, never with lettuce or tomato, but including many greens, some of which we consider weeds. Insalata Mista contains a more varied selection. Tomatoes in salad are not common; if you find an Insalata Pomodoro to order, tomatoes are likely to be the only ingredient. Deep-fried zucchini are a common Italian vegetable dish, and always excellent. Pasta choices are so many they'll make even the most supremely decisive person pause for thought before ordering. You can't go wrong. You'll not find spaghetti and meatballs anywhere - it's not Italian! Carbonara, Amatriciana and Arabiata are all favorite 'sauces' you'll rarely find in the U.S., served with many different pastas. Tortellini in cream sauce makes a quite filling dish, as does Fettuccine al Alfredo (whether or not taken at any of the three 'original' Alfredos). 'Bolognese' is as close as you'll get to an American 'Spaghetti with Meat Sauce'; it's made with a tasty ragu, not hamburger, and, in Bologna, never served with spaghetti - usually tagliatelle. Two dishes you'll often find on the menu, but which, if not, they'll often happily prepare: Mozzarella and Tomato Salad (Insalata Caprese), and Bruschetta. Mozzarella, made from 'Buffalo' milk (a progenitor of our cattle) is made fresh twice daily (for lunch and for dinner) and is completely unlike the vulcanized rubber blobs used for U.S. pizza. The dish is dressed with oil, vinegar, and basil. Bruschetta is a toasted slice of peasant bread, covered with olive oil, rubbed lightly with garlic, and covered with chopped fresh tomatoes. Peasant food, but regal. For dessert try Macedonia (fruit salad, but fresh, not canned), healthy and delightful, or Crema Caramella (egg custard with caramel) (flan in Spain) for your sweet tooth. In many areas (e.g. Piazza del Popolo or via Veneto) you can follow dinner with a Capuccino at a nearby (tiny) table on the sidewalk and enjoy the passing people parade. RESTAURANTS Our .most. favorite restaurant has been Girarrosto Toscano (Tuscan spit) via Campania, 29. (Around the northeast corner of the top of the via Veneto.) Fairly expensive. Expect to pay as much as $75 per person. Unless you tell them to stop, they'll start by serving an outstanding antipasto selection. Frequented by celebrities (e.g. Pavarotti.) Excellent steaks and veal chops grilled over an open fire. Give up food for two days to afford this. Al Moro, near the Trevi Fountain. Specialty is Spaghetti al Moro - excellent. Somewhat pricey, it opens late for lunch at 1:00pm. Giovanni, on via Marche behind the Excelsior hotel. Quite good food. Warm, friendly owner. Good service. Moderate prices (actually almost inexpensive for the area.) Ristorante Abruzzi, via Vaccaro, 1 (at end of Piazza Santi Apostoli). A best buy. Located about mid-way between the Trevi Fountain and Trajan's Column. Small restaurant. Run by same family for all of the 30+ years I've been going there. Quite inexpensive. Cannelloni Abbruzi the specialty, but everything well-prepared. (Get there early for the specialty; they run out early!) Piccolo Mondo, via Aurora, 39, near via Veneto, and across the corner from the Hotel Boston. Well-known. A quite varied menu. If you stay latish of an evening and are gregarious, you'll likely enjoy an impromptu guitar songfest. Giggi Fazzi, via Lucullo, 22, near American Embassy. A favorite of Julie's. Just okay by me. La Rampa, just behind American Express in Piazza Mignonelli at the foot of Trinita dei Monti (Spanish Steps). Convenient if shopping Gucci and the via Condotti area. One of .the. best antipasto tables in Italy. Ambasciata d'Abruzzo, via Pietro Tacchini (Peter Turkey street!) in the Parioli district. Haven't been for years, but still recommended by acquaintances. Fixed price meal that'll add 5 pounds. Too much to eat. Good quality. Specialties, wines, liqueurs, from the Abruzzi region. Fun. Rustic. Peppone, via Emilia just south of via Lombardia. Had to ask Julie for name. I usually just ask her if she wants to go to her 'favorite restaurant.' Casina Valadier, in the Pincio overlooking Rome. Nice place for lunch or lemonade on a summer day. Copyright 1995 E. J. Gehrlein (EdGehrMKC@AOL.COM) FROM 'THE FRUG' Additions from Jeff Smith, the Frugal Gourmet. I've not been to any, but they match other recommendations and seem reliable: Da Franco. A seafood house. Fixed price. "Just great and inexpensive for what you get." Via dei Falisci and Via degli Equi. Edmondo, an old Roman-style house specializing in innards.(!!) Not expensive, filled with locals. Circonvallazione Clodia, 90. Tell Edmondo that Jeff Smith sent you. Da Pancrazio, on the site of the assassination of Julius Caesar. Campo de' Fiori (flower market.) Very nice, a little formal, good food, somewhat expensive. La Carbonara, Campo de' Fiori market square. "...one of the best antipasti tables I have ever seen." Moderate in price, by Roman standards. Have the Pasta alla Carbonara. (Spaghetti (or Penne) with Italian bacon, egg and grated cheese.) Romolo, with good food and price a little more than moderate. Via di Porta Settimiana, 8. Piperno, very famous restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto. Ask directions and bring lots of money. "The food is just terrific." Da Giggetto al Portico d'Ottavia. (Also the address.) Moderate in price (and well regarded for years.) Vecchia Roma, near the Jewish Ghetto at Piazza Campitelli, 18. One of the "best restaurants you will find in Rome." Expensive, but worth it. Cesarina. Via Piemonte, 109. Medium expensive. Er Moccoletto near the American Embassy. Wonderful food and a charming atmosphere. Great antipasti table. "Fairly expensive, but worth the price." Via Lucania, 35. Buon Viaggio e Ciao.